Refuge di Prati - Col de Bavella
Wednesday 14th September 2011
We started at 6am by climbing to join a ridge with fantastic views over both the west and east coasts of Corsica. The ridge follows the high level GR20 route and, in our opinion, is well worth following. On the first section of the ridge, as the sun was just coming up over the horizon, we captured our favourite photo of the trip (see below).
Tom above Refuge de Prati with the rising sun over the East coast of Corsica
Passing a large flock of sheep, plus guardian-dogs, on the way across to the Refuge d'Usciolu
It took us just under 2 hours to reach Col de Laparo (1510m) where a good water source can be found downhill from a small hut (and marked from the path). A quick rest here and we headed back up on to the ridge. Some scrambling sections in the next part of the ridge lead eventually to Refuge d'Usciolu (1806m) which again can be used as a water source. If you find the guardian in the right mood you might also be able to stock up on a bit of food here.
The section from Refuge d'Usciolu (1806m) to Refuge d'Asinau is relatively flat, crossing a plateau with a number of good water sources, before the final climb up Monte Incudine (2134m). At the summit of Monte Incudine we met a dog whose role seemed to be sheep-guardian. It stayed with us for about 20 minutes - it was clearly used to bragging food from passing walkers and we gave him some of our polenta from the previous night. He practically inhaled it.
Tom contouring a ridge soon after after passing the Refuge d'Usciolu, with the summit of Monte Incudine (2134m) in the background
From the summit of Monte Incudine there is a steep descent of around 700m leading to Refuge d'Asinau. We passed a lot of people struggling on this descent. Again, the moral of the story is do not take large packs - they will only hinder your progress on more technical sections.
Our original plan for the day had been to stop at Refuge d'Asinau (we had booked two places). However, we heard from a couple who we had met earlier in the day that the service at Refuge d'Asinau was appalling (including beds ridden with insects), but alternative accommodation could be found only a couple of hundred meters further downhill at the Bergerie (clearly visible when you arrive at Asinau). Indeed, we found the welcome at the Bergerie to be above par, and we were able to buy some basic provisions from the caretaker.
For various reasons we decided that we wouldn't stop at the Bergerie, but would continue instead to Col de Bavella. We both felt good, had enough food and water, 2.5 hours of light remaining, and liked the idea of a very short last day. So we ploughed on down the valley heading towards the famous Aiguilles de Bavella. The climb up to the Aiguilles is very steep, but relatively short, and being among the towering pinnacles at the top was one of the highlights of the route. The descent from the Aiguilles to Col de Bavella is steep and rocky with some sections of scrambling.
Steve, after the steep climb up to the Aiguilles de Bavella
Tom on one of the scrambling sections among the pinnacles of the Aiguilles de Bavella
We arrived in Col de Bavella and managed to find a couple of spare beds in a cheap hotel/restaurant located slightly downhill and next to the main hairpin bend in the road. The opportunity to shower was most welcome, and the restaurant turned out to be good quality and good value (35 euros for dinner, bed and breakfast). The day was easily the longest of the trip, but we were pleased to have walked so many stages in one long push, and looked forward to a relatively short and easy finish in to Conca.
