Saturday 10th September 2011
Day 2 was long, involving 2.5 to 3 guidebook stages including the Cirque de la Solitude - perhaps the single most "feared" section of the route. We chose to start early to avoid the sun on the first long climb of the day, from the Refuge de Carrozzu to Col de la Muvrella. The first climb was gradual over nice rock slabs and more gravelly zig-zags, which would have been problematic had the slabs been wet or greasy. We reached Col de la Muvrella after about 1.5 hours of constant climbing, only the last part being particularly steep and loose. A small lake (Lac de la Muvrella) about 15 minutes before the Col would provide a nice bivvy spot.
Once at the Col de la Muvrella there are two options available: either descend SE to the town of Haut Asco to stock up on food and water followed by the long climb up to the Cirque de la Solitude; or head south along the "old GR20" route which weaves along a ridge before joining up with the path that arrives from Haut Asco. We chose to take the old GR20 route as it avoids a significant amount of ascent, and in our opinion is also the more scenic and less busy option. If you choose to take the route of the old GR20, it is worth bearing in mind that the markers are now worn and not very easy to spot, especially for the first couple of hundred metres following the path divergence. There is another bivvy spot just after the start of this old GR20 section, high up with great views but with no water source.
Once the route of the old GR20 meets up with the path arriving from Haut Asco, there was a fast section along the valley floor before a steep ascent to the start of the Cirque de la Solitude. The Cirque looked menacing from the top, and indeed most of the other hikers were moving very slowly with their 70+ litre rucksacks. Anyone with scrambling or climbing experience will have no problems in the Cirque. The biggest danger is other people, mainly through the dislodging of rocks - much of the time we found ourselves overtaking others by scrambling slightly off-line. We both had the feeling that the Cirque in July or August would not be a pleasant experience. Once at the bottom of the Cirque you have to gain all of the height just lost, so a steep climb of about 15-20 minutes follows. We were through the Cirque in about an hour in total, and stopped at the end to admire the views and eat a not insubstantial chickpea salad bought at the Refuge de Carrozzu.
Descending from the Cirque towards Refuge Tighiettu was initially steep and gravelly, but became slabby and much more pleasant further down. Water and food was available both in the Refuge and at many points during the next few kilometers.
Tom reaching the top of the first ascent, just as the sun broke over the mountain tops
Once at the Col de la Muvrella there are two options available: either descend SE to the town of Haut Asco to stock up on food and water followed by the long climb up to the Cirque de la Solitude; or head south along the "old GR20" route which weaves along a ridge before joining up with the path that arrives from Haut Asco. We chose to take the old GR20 route as it avoids a significant amount of ascent, and in our opinion is also the more scenic and less busy option. If you choose to take the route of the old GR20, it is worth bearing in mind that the markers are now worn and not very easy to spot, especially for the first couple of hundred metres following the path divergence. There is another bivvy spot just after the start of this old GR20 section, high up with great views but with no water source.
Once the route of the old GR20 meets up with the path arriving from Haut Asco, there was a fast section along the valley floor before a steep ascent to the start of the Cirque de la Solitude. The Cirque looked menacing from the top, and indeed most of the other hikers were moving very slowly with their 70+ litre rucksacks. Anyone with scrambling or climbing experience will have no problems in the Cirque. The biggest danger is other people, mainly through the dislodging of rocks - much of the time we found ourselves overtaking others by scrambling slightly off-line. We both had the feeling that the Cirque in July or August would not be a pleasant experience. Once at the bottom of the Cirque you have to gain all of the height just lost, so a steep climb of about 15-20 minutes follows. We were through the Cirque in about an hour in total, and stopped at the end to admire the views and eat a not insubstantial chickpea salad bought at the Refuge de Carrozzu.
Having a little break at the end of the Cirque de la Solitude
Descending from the Cirque towards Refuge Tighiettu was initially steep and gravelly, but became slabby and much more pleasant further down. Water and food was available both in the Refuge and at many points during the next few kilometers.
Descending from the Cirque de la Solitude towards Refuge Tighiettu
The stage from Refuge Tighiettu to Refuge Ciuttulu di I Mori was fairly simple and didn't involve any technical sections. There are also many streams along the way that provided the opportunity to stock up on water and cool down with a quick swim. The first section contoured around a wide valley before swinging west to begin the long climb up to the Refuge Ciuttulu di I Mori. It had been a long day for us, so we took our time on the climb before finally emerging on to a high and exposed plateau which leads to the Refuge. Although the Refuge Ciuttulu di I Mori was being run by one of the most miserable human beings ever to exist, this was partly compensated for by its truly spectacular location. We chose to sleep in one of the tents strewn nearby the Refuge that night.
Tom nearing the top of the final climb of the day. The lake in the background lies just to the east of Albertacce
Day 2 tip: If you choose to take the old GR20 route, and avoid the descent to Haut Asco, you may have to go a long way on this stage without an opportunity to stock up on water. Although some of the guidebooks suggest that water stops are available on the first climb from the Refuge de Carrozzu and just before the Cirque de la Solitude, we either did not find these or did not trust the water sources. Once leaving the Refuge de Carrozzu the first chance we had to stock up on water was the Refuge Tighiettu, approximately 6 hours later. Bear this in mind, and take sufficient water at the start of the day!
