Friday 9th September 2011
We began Day 1 with a last ditch hitch hike - our taxi, ordered the night before by a very helpful bloke working at Camping Dolce Vita, failed to turn up as asked at 6am. Fortunately, hitching posed little trouble. We arrived in the village of Calenzana around 0700 and grabbed a coffee at the Café GR20 - not really worthwhile, to be frank - and then began our mission at about 0730!
The first few kilometres were very tame and quick going, meandering up a gentle incline which skirts around west and then south, with excellent views back over the north coast. The path eventually steepened quite sharply, rising to a pleasant col - an excellent snack stop - before levelling off and diving up into the first section of scrambling. This scrambling is not always trivial, but this is the type of terrain on which we gained the most time and really enjoyed the technicalities of the movements with our small rucksacks. It's worth mentioning that the scrambling would have been difficult in the wet.
A long flat section followed, offering some respite as it contoured around to the well positioned Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu with a good water source 200 or so metres further along. We reached the Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu in 3 hours. After stocking up on water, the route continued over boulders and a stream and on to a steady climb over a boulder-filled slope until reaching one of the most spectacular views the route has to offer.
On the upside, a little way further along the route was a great plunge pool; good for bathing, washing and cooking. It would be tempting to bivvy here if passing by again. Get to the plunge pool by heading toward the river (south) from the refuge, traversing the slope, keeping left toward the foot bridge which you cross the next day. The pool is visible close to and upstream from the bridge. You don't get to the pool by descending the valley - this is reversing the end part of the low route.
The first few kilometres were very tame and quick going, meandering up a gentle incline which skirts around west and then south, with excellent views back over the north coast. The path eventually steepened quite sharply, rising to a pleasant col - an excellent snack stop - before levelling off and diving up into the first section of scrambling. This scrambling is not always trivial, but this is the type of terrain on which we gained the most time and really enjoyed the technicalities of the movements with our small rucksacks. It's worth mentioning that the scrambling would have been difficult in the wet.
Tom looking north-west mid way through the initial climb
A long flat section followed, offering some respite as it contoured around to the well positioned Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu with a good water source 200 or so metres further along. We reached the Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu in 3 hours. After stocking up on water, the route continued over boulders and a stream and on to a steady climb over a boulder-filled slope until reaching one of the most spectacular views the route has to offer.
Steve at the high col on the second stage of day 1, with spectacular views across the rugged north of Corsica.
From this high point, the route follows a ridge around on rugged, loose terrain before dropping down to the Carrozzu hut on steep, even looser terrain. Be careful that you don't drop off the side of the ridge, away from the marked path - we got a little carried away on one occasion, mistaking the interest of some elderly hikers in our 'alternative' route as admiration rather than the more likely concern for our mental state.
View descending to the Carrozzu refuge
We strongly advise avoiding the Carrozzu hut, apart for use of their water. It's worth explaining why, as it became a theme throughout our trip: Firstly, the toilets were utterly revolting and it wasn't clear whether they had ever been serviced or even cleaned. Secondly, the service was, well, rude. And finally, we were assured that the breakfast would be hearty - enough to fill two hungry hikers - but was in fact three mini slices of packet bread with a little jam, butter and instant coffee. All this for 7 euros.
On the upside, a little way further along the route was a great plunge pool; good for bathing, washing and cooking. It would be tempting to bivvy here if passing by again. Get to the plunge pool by heading toward the river (south) from the refuge, traversing the slope, keeping left toward the foot bridge which you cross the next day. The pool is visible close to and upstream from the bridge. You don't get to the pool by descending the valley - this is reversing the end part of the low route.
